Etalase Seni Budaya dan Ekologis Umah Melajah

MATA mereka mendelik. Tangan-tangan mereka berseberangan. Jari-jemari melebar dan kaki bersilang. Melihat keduanya, serasa mereka sedang marah. Itulah latihan Tari Rangda yang diajarkan I Komang Suryawan kepada muridnya Agus.
I Komang Suryawan dengan ciri khas rambut panjang sehari-hari mengajarkan latihan tari bali di Umah Melajah Taksu Tridatu. Lelaki 27 tahun yang akrab dipanggil Bli Komang ini menjadi salah satu pendiri Yayasan Taksu Tridatu di Pulau Nusa Penida.
Dengan badan lumayan kurus, ia memperhatikan salah seorang peserta yang sedang latihan menari.
“Ndang… nding… ndong… ndeng… ndang… ndong… ndeng….” terdengar ia menyuarakan gamelan mulut.
Perhatiannya pada Agus sangat fokus. Tangan-tangan Agus dikeparkan, langkah kakinya diatur sehingga seirama dengan gamelan mulutnya.
“Langkah kakinya berayun… mata fokus ke depan… sambil mendelik… ingat tangan tetap digetarkan…” katanya sambil menuntun Agus.
“Habis kita malpal, apalagi Bli Komang?” tanya Agus.
Bli Komang menjelaskan kembali tahapan menarikan Tari Rangda. Selain menjelaskan tahapan, ia juga menjelaskan pemaknaan setiap gerakan.
Di sela-sela latihan, saya mencoba mendekati dan bertanya kepada Bli Komang.

“Bli Komang, latihan menari Rangda membutuhkan emosi penjiwaan yang lumayan, ya?” tanyaku.
“Ya… emosi penjiwaan yang keras, karena dengan penjiwaan ini topeng rangda yang ditarikan akan lebih metaksu,” katanya.
Tari Rangda merupakan tari ciri khas Bali yang biasanya identik dengan adanya barong. Tari ini memang memiliki karakter yang keras dan topengnya tampak menyeramkan.
Tarian ini biasanya dipentaskan saat pertunjukkan calonarang. Topeng dengan taring yang panjang, lidah yang menjulur, dan mata yang membelalak membuat takut bagi yang melihatnya.
Ditambah asesoris pakaian yang berwarna hitam, putih, dan merah, serta sarung kuku pada tangan penari, memberikan kesan yang menakutkan.
Namun, tarian ini tetap diajarkan untuk menjaga warisan leluhur yang pernah ada. Kebetulan di Umah Melajah ada topeng rangda yang digunakan untuk belajar oleh anak-anak. Salah satunya Agus yang tekun mempelajari topeng rangda.
“Saya mempelajari tarian ini karena saya senang, ada unsur mistis yang saya lihat di tari ini, saya senang diajarkan Bli Komang dengan sabar,” kata Agus.
Tarian Rangda memang berhubungan dengan suasana mistis. Seperti adanya calonarang yang biasanya ada kerauhan atau kerasukan.

“Saat saya belajar Tari Rangda sama Bli Komang, saya merasakan biasa saja, tetapi setelah memakai topeng rangda, ada sesuatu yang berbeda yang dirasakan,” ujar Agus.
Belajar Tari Rangda di Umah Melajah merupakan salah satu kegiatan pelestarian seni dan budaya. Tari Gandrung, Tari Rejang, dan tari pertunjukkan lainnya juga diajarkan. Anak-anak bergabung di Umah Melajah untuk belajar banyak hal, tidak hanya belajar menari.
Umah Melajah dibangun di kawasan Bukit Keker, Desa Ped, Nusa Penida. Tempat ini sebagai etalase tentang pelestarian seni dan budaya, serta pengelolaan lingkungan utamanya tentang masalah sampah.
“Dibilang sebagai etalase, karena di sini terdapat berbagai kegiatan tentang pelestarian seni dan budaya, pertanian dan peternakan, energi terbarukan dan juga pengelolaan sampah,” kata Bli Komang.

Memang saat memasuki Umah Melajah di bagian depannya terdapat perkebunan yang didesain seperti farmakultur. Ada tiang-tiang yang atapnya dari bambu. Masing-masing tiang dililitkan tanaman markisa. Naiknya lilitan tanaman markisa ke atap bambu memberikan kesan hijau.
Tanaman markisa ditanam berderet. Tiap tanaman memiliki waktu tanam yang berbeda. Tujuannya agar jika ada satu tanaman yang sudah tua dan mati, maka akan tergantikan oleh tanaman markisa yang baru. Setiap pagi dan sore seorang pengurus kebun menyiram tanaman.
Di sini juga dapat dilihat sistem penyimpanan air pada tanaman buah yang baru ditanam. Caranya dengan menggunakan botol plastik bekas sebagai penampung air.
“Memang di Nusa Penida jika bertani kendalanya adalah air saat kemarau, jadi memang harus hemat air,” kata I Wayan Belun.
Di Umah Melajah ia sering dipanggil Iwak De. Ia keseharian mengurus tanaman dan juga memanfaatkan hasil tanam tersebut. Setiap tiga hari Iwak De memupuk dengan pupuk cair dari biogas ternaknya.

Meski sudah berumur 60 tahun ia tetap bersemangat berkebun. Semburan air dari selangnya membuat tanaman lebih segar. Iwak De merasa senang jika hasil kebunnya tumbuh subur.
“Saya akan tambah senang jika ada anak-anak ikut membantu menyiram, memupuk, dan menaman bibit tanaman. Dan tambah senang saat hasil panen bisa berbagi dengan mereka,” kata Iwak De.
Rambutnya yang sudah beruban juga sebagai identitas pengalamannya dalam berkebun.
Iwak De mengatakan, Ia harus mengatur waktu agar pekerjaannya sebagai porter tetap dilakukan. Buruh porter, beternak, dan bertani adalah aktivitas sehari-harinya. Walaupun tua ia tetap semangat bekerja. Apalagi saat berkebun ditemani anak-anak.
Anak-anak yang tergabung dalam Umah Melajah diajarkan cara berkebun. Selain belajar seni budaya, mereka juga belajar cara merawat tanaman. Ada sayuran, buah-buahan, tanaman obat, dan tanaman upakara yang dirawat bersama anak-anak. Paling tidak setiap Sabtu dan Minggu mereka bisa meringankan pekerjaan Iwak De.

TEMPAT MENGELOLAAN SAMPAH
Dua puluh meter dari pintu masuk Umah Melajah, ke arah selatan, terdapat TPST (Tempat Pengelolaan Sampah Terpadu) Nyuh Kedas. Mungkin saat mendengar pengelolaan sampah dalam pikiran kita tentu terbesit bayangan tempat yang kotor, kumuh, banyak lalat, dan berbau. Uniknya TPST ini tidak seperti itu.
Di bawah binaan PPLH Bali, TPST ini tampak lain dari yang lain. Saat kita masuk, di samping kiri dan kanan sudah ada kebun-kebun berundak. Berundak sesuai dengan tipe lahan yang ada. Kita bisa melihat tanaman kangkung, cabe, mentimun, terong, kacang, dan sawi tumbuh subur. Hijaunya membuat kita malah betah ada di TPST.
Tidak ada sampah berserakan di TPST ini. Bau tak sedap? Juga tidak ada. Kita bisa melihat tumpukan plastik dalam karung yang tersusun rapi. Sampah organik terfermentasi dalam wadahnya.
“Kita memang mau membuat kesan TPST ini berbeda, tempat pengelolaan sampah yang hijau, tak berbau dan bersih, orang akan nyaman datang ke sini,” kata Catur Yudha Hariani, perempuan aktivis lingkungan yang juga Direktur PPLH Bali.

Ia mengatakan bahwa sampah menjadi perhatian bersama. Kerja sama antara masyarakat, Desa Dinas, Desa Adat, dan pemuda sangat dibutuhkan untuk mewujudkan “zero waste”.
TPST Nyuh Kedas yang ada di areal Umah Melajah ini juga diharapkan bisa menjadi percontohan dan tempat belajar untuk pengelolaan sampah.
Di dinding-dinding bangunan TPST terlihat poster-poster edukasi. Yang paling menarik adalah moto yang tertulis di papan poster: “Nyuh Kukuh Go Zero Waste, Sing Ada Luu, Bek Tamu Bek Pis”.
“Sing Ada Luu” artinya tidak ada sampah. “Bek Tamu Bek Pis” artinya banyak wisatawan, banyak uang. Moto tersebut memberikan makna yang mendalam tentang sampah, pariwisata, dan ekonomi.
TPST Nyuh Kedas baru mendapatkan pelanggan 70 keluarga. Dari segi jumlah memang belum banyak. Namun, sistem yang diterapkan sebagai pelanggan TPST agak berbeda.

“Yang bisa menjadi pelanggan jika mereka mau melakukan pemilahan di rumah tangga. Memilah dari sampah organik, anorganik, dan residu. Selain warga, pelanggan kami juga ada villa, warung, homestay, dan sekolah,” kata I Nyoman Moda.
I Nyoman Moda, dikenal sebagai Pak Anok, bertugas mengangkut sampah-sampah yang telah dipilah dari pelanggan. Setiap tempat pelanggan telah ditempelkan tempat pemilahan sampah. Kayu dicat putih yang berisi tulisan sampah organik, anorganik, dan residu.
Setiap bagian pemilahan disediakan karung. Ini memudahkan pelanggan memasukkan sampahnya. Sampah diambil setiap pagi dan sore. Sampah yang terpilah dalam karung di setiap pelanggan dimasukkan ke dalam kendaaran moci.
Sesampai di TPST, Pak Anok langsung menempatkan pilahan sampah sesuai tempat yang disediakan. Sampah organik dicincang dan difermentasikan. Botol-botol plastik yang terisi air dibuang airnya. Sampah residu dibawa ke TPA.
Pengelolaan yang langsung inilah yang menjadi alasan TPST tidak menjadi berbau. “Pemilahan sampah memang menjadi kendala utama, saya terus mengingatkan pelanggan untuk selalu melakukan pemilahan,” kata Pak Anok.
Di dalam Umah Melajah terdapat panggung, rumah bundar, dan rumah outlet. Panggung pementasan dengan latar Siwa Nata Raja sebagai simbol kesenian memberikan kesan yang indah dan ber-”taksu”. Gerakan-gerakan penari cilik di panggung ditemani pembina tari, membuat suasana yang menyejukkan.

Di samping kiri dan kanan panggung tampak anak-anak sedang belajar gamelan. Walaupun dengan perlengkapan gamelan seadanya, suara-suara gamelan itu memberikan hiburan. Tampak juga anak-anak belajar tupakara seperti pembuatan sampian penjor di rumah bundar. Di sisi utara terdapat rumah outlet tempat display produk-produk khas Nusa Penida. Di dalamnya terlihat kain-kain unik dan khas Kain Cepuk dipajang di dinding. Ada juga produk VCO hasil karya kelompok wanita tani Taksu Tridatu.
Di selatan panggung ada kandang sapi. Kandang memang terlihat biasa, namun ada biogas. Sistem biogas terhubung dengan kandang ternak sapi. Kotoran-kotoran sapi dialirkan ke bak penampung. Alhasil dapur di Umah Melajah menggunakan biogas sebagai bahan bakar. Biogas ini juga digunakan sebagai bahan bakar lampu petromax, saat lampu panel surya kekurangan dayanya.
Penerangan di Umah Melajah sepenuhnya memanfaatkan panel surya. Panel-panel ini terus memberikan penerangan, sehingga menjadi bentuk percontohan energi terbarukan.
Keramaian di Umah Melajah terlihat setiap Sabtu dan Minggu. Tempat ini menyajikan bagaimana suatu bentuk pelestarian seni dan budaya serta ekologis Nusa Penida. Seni, sosial budaya, pertanian, peternakan, energi terbarukan, pengelolaan sampah, dan atraksi wisata menjadi bersatu padu di satu tempat. Anak-anak pun akan sangat menyenangi banyak pilihan dalam suatu kegiatan.
Kita berharap Umah Melajah terus berkembang, bisa menjadi percontohan umah-umah melajah di setiap kepulauan. Ya, Umah Melajah atau rumah belajar bagi generasi penerus dan tetua dalam kegiatan pewarisan seni budaya dan kearifan lokal pengelolaan lingkungan. (I Wayan Karta)
 (Tulisan feature ini hasil Pelatihan Jurnalisme Warga yang diadakan The Samdhana Institute dengan peserta pemuda komunitas adat se-Indonesia dengan trainer Syofiardi Bachyul Jb secara online pada 31 Agustus -21 September 2020. I Wayan Karta adalah aktivis di Yayasan Taksu Tridatu di Pulau Nusa Penida, Bali dan juga seorang dosen).

Their eyes widened. Their hands are opposite. Toes spread and legs crossed. Looking at the two of them, it felt like they were angry. That is the Rangda Dance practice taught by I Komang Suryawan to his student Agus.

I Komang Suryawan, with his characteristic long hair, teaches Balinese dance practice every day at Umah Melajah Taksu Tridatu. This 27 year old man who is familiarly called Bli Komang is one of the founders of the Taksu Tridatu Foundation on Nusa Penida Island.

With a fairly thin body, he watched one of the participants who was practicing dancing.

“Ndang… ndeng… ndeng… ndeng… ndang… ndong… ndeng….” He was heard voicing his mouth gamelan.

His attention to Agus was very focused. Agus's hands were spread, his footsteps were arranged so that they were in rhythm with the gamelan in his mouth.

"His footsteps sway... eyes focus forward... while glaring... remember to keep your hands vibrating..." he said as he guided Agus.

"After we finish, what else is Bli Komang?" Agus asked.

Bli Komang explained again the stages of dancing the Rangda Dance. Apart from explaining the stages, he also explains the meaning of each movement.

In between training, I tried to approach and ask Bli Komang

Apart from Rangda dance, Gandrung dance, Rejang dance and others are also taught. (Photo: I Wayan Karta)

"Bli Komang, practicing Rangda dance requires quite a lot of emotional emotion, right?" I asked.

"Yes... the emotional emotion is strong, because with this soul the Rangda mask that is danced will be more metaksu," he said.

The Rangda dance is a typical Balinese dance which is usually synonymous with the barong. This dance does have a tough character and the mask looks scary.

This dance is usually performed during prospectivearang performances. The mask with long fangs, protruding tongue, and wide eyes terrifies those who see it.

Plus the black, white and red clothing accessories, as well as the nail covers on the dancer's hands, give a scary impression.

However, this dance is still taught to maintain the ancestral heritage that once existed. Incidentally, at Umah Melajah there are Rangda masks which are used for learning by children. One of them is Agus who diligently studies Rangda masks.

"I learned this dance because I like it, there is a mystical element that I see in this dance, I like being taught by Bli Komang patiently," said Agus.

The Rangda dance is indeed associated with a mystical atmosphere. Like the prospective charcoal which usually causes confusion or possession.

Bli Komang is teaching. (Photo: I Wayan Karta)

"When I learned the Rangda Dance with Bli Komang, I felt normal, but after wearing the Rangda mask, I felt something different," said Agus.

Learning Rangda Dance at Umah Melajah is one of the arts and culture preservation activities. Gandrung Dance, Rejang Dance, and other performance dances are also taught. Children join Umah Melajah to learn many things, not just learning to dance.

Umah Melajah was built in the Bukit Keker area, Ped Village, Nusa Penida. This place is a showcase for preserving art and culture, as well as environmental management, especially regarding waste issues.

"It is said to be a showcase, because here there are various activities regarding art and culture preservation, agriculture and animal husbandry, renewable energy and also waste management," said Bli Komang.

Toes spread and legs crossed. (Photo: I Wayan Karta)

Indeed, when you enter Umah Melajah at the front there is a plantation designed like a farm. There are pillars with bamboo roofs. Each pole is wrapped around a passion fruit plant. Rising passion fruit plants up to the bamboo roof gives a green impression.

Passion fruit plants are planted in rows. Each plant has a different planting time. The aim is that if one plant is old and dies, it will be replaced by a new passion fruit plant. Every morning and evening a gardener waters the plants.

Here you can also see the water storage system in newly planted fruit plants. The method is to use used plastic bottles as water containers.

"In Nusa Penida, when farming, the problem is water during the dry season, so you have to save water," said I Wayan Belun.

In Umah Melajah he is often called Iwak De. He takes care of the plants every day and also uses the results of the planting. Every three days Iwak De fertilizes with liquid fertilizer from his livestock's biogas.

Apart from explaining the stages, he also explains the meaning of each movement. (Photo: I Wayan Karta)

Even though he is 60 years old, he is still passionate about gardening. The water spray from the hose makes the plants fresher. Iwak De feels happy when his garden grows well.

"I would be even happier if the children helped water, fertilize and plant the plants. "And we are even happier when we can share the harvest with them," said Iwak De.

His gray hair is also an identity for his experience in gardening.

Iwak De said, he had to manage his time so that he could still carry out his work as a porter. Porter labor, animal husbandry and farming are his daily activities. Even though he is old, he is still enthusiastic about working. Especially when gardening accompanied by children.

Children who are members of Umah Melajah are taught how to garden. Apart from learning cultural arts, they also learn how to care for plants. There are vegetables, fruit, medicinal plants and upakara plants that are cared for with the children. At least every Saturday and Sunday they can make Iwak De's job easier.

Practicing the Rangda dance requires a fair amount of mental emotion. (Photo: I Wayan Karta)

WASTE MANAGEMENT PLACE

Twenty meters from the entrance to Umah Melajah, to the south, there is the Nyuh Kedas TPST (Integrated Waste Management Site). Maybe when we hear about waste management in our minds the image of a place that is dirty, shabby, full of flies and smells comes to mind. Uniquely, this TPST is not like that.

Under the guidance of PPLH Bali, this TPST looks different from the others. When we entered, on the left and right there were terraced gardens. Steps according to the existing land type. We can see kale, chilies, cucumbers, eggplant, beans and mustard greens growing well. The green makes us feel at home at the TPST.

There is no rubbish scattered at this TPST. Bad smell? Also nothing. We can see piles of plastic in neatly arranged sacks. Organic waste ferments in its container.

"We really want to make the impression that this TPST is different, a green, odorless and clean waste management place, people will be comfortable coming here," said Catur Yudha Hariani, a female environmental activist who is also the Director of PPLH Bali.

The crowds at Umah Melajah are visible every Saturday and Sunday. (Photo: I Wayan Karta)

He said that waste was a common concern. Collaboration between the community, Service Villages, Traditional Villages and youth is really needed to realize "zero waste".

It is also hoped that the Nyuh Kedas TPST in the Umah Melajah area can become a model and learning place for waste management.

On the walls of the TPST building you can see educational posters. What is most interesting is the motto written on the poster board: "Nyuh Kukuh Go Zero Waste, Sing Ada Luu, Bek Tam Bek Pis".

“Sing Ada Luu” means no waste. “Bek Tamu Bek Pis” means lots of tourists, lots of money. This motto provides a deep meaning about waste, tourism and the economy.

Nyuh Kedas TPST has just received 70 family customers. In terms of numbers, there aren't many. However, the system implemented as a TPST customer is somewhat different.

Arts, social culture, agriculture, animal husbandry, renewable energy, waste management and tourist attractions come together in one place. (Photo: I Wayan Karta)

“Those who can become customers if they want to do the sorting at home. Sorting organic, inorganic and residual waste. "Apart from residents, our customers also include villas, food stalls, homestays and schools," said I Nyoman Moda.

I Nyoman Moda, known as Pak Anok, is in charge of transporting sorted waste from customers. Every customer location has a waste sorting station attached. White painted wood containing organic, inorganic and residue waste written on it.

Each sorting section is provided with a sack. This makes it easier for customers to put in their trash. Garbage is picked up every morning and evening. The waste that is sorted into sacks for each customer is put into moci vehicles.

Upon arrival at the TPST, Mr Anok immediately placed the waste sorting according to the space provided. Organic waste is chopped and fermented. Plastic bottles filled with water were thrown away. Residual waste is taken to the landfill.

This direct management is the reason why TPST does not smell bad. "Waste sorting is indeed the main obstacle, I keep reminding customers to always sort it," said Mr Anok.

Inside Umah Melajah there is a stage, round house and outlet house. The performance stage with the backdrop of Shiva Nata Raja as a symbol of art gives a beautiful and "taksu" impression. The movements of the little dancers on stage accompanied by a dance instructor create a cool atmosphere.

Umah Melajah or home of learning for the next generation. (Photo: I Wayan Karta)

To the left and right of the stage, children can be seen learning gamelan. Even with minimal gamelan equipment, the gamelan sounds provide entertainment. Children were also seen learning tupakara such as making penjor sampian in the round house. On the north side there is an outlet house where typical Nusa Penida products are displayed. Inside you can see unique and typical Cepuk cloths displayed on the walls. There are also VCO products created by the women's farming group Taksu Tridatu.

To the south of the stage is a cowshed. The cage looks ordinary, but there is biogas. The biogas system is connected to the cattle pen. Cow dung flows into a holding tank. As a result, the kitchen at Umah Melajah uses biogas as fuel. This biogas is also used as fuel for Petromax lamps, when solar panel lamps lack power.

The lighting at Umah Melajah fully utilizes solar panels. These panels continuously provide light, thus becoming a pilot form of renewable energy.

The crowds at Umah Melajah are visible every Saturday and Sunday. This place presents a form of art, culture and ecological preservation of Nusa Penida. Arts, social culture, agriculture, animal husbandry, renewable energy, waste management and tourist attractions come together in one place. Children will really enjoy having lots of choices in activities.

We hope that Umah Melajah continues to develop, and can become a model for umah melajah in every archipelago. Yes, Umah Melajah or a learning house for the next generation and elders in the activities of inheriting arts and culture and local wisdom in environmental management. (I Wayan Karta)

(This feature article is the result of the Citizen Journalism Training held by The Samdhana Institute with youth participants from indigenous communities throughout Indonesia with trainer Syofiardi Bachyul Jb online on 31 August - 21 September 2020. I Wayan Karta is an activist at the Taksu Tridatu Foundation on Nusa Penida Island, Bali and also a lecturer).